Lahore: A-E
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Lahore: Badshahi Mosque
Stoning the Badshahi Mosque’s environment
By Shoaib Ahmed
LAHORE, June 20: The Punjab Archeology Department is fixing red sand stones in the courtyard of the historic Badshahi Mosque despite the fact the stones lack water absorption and develop depressions due to water accumulation by the time. The department will spend Rs36.44 million on the renovation of the 45 per cent of the courtyard.
Archeology Department officials say the mosque’s original flooring in the 16th century was of bricks. The original floor is still intact. In the 60s when the bricks were found decaying, the layers of red sand stone were put on the original flooring for renovation. Red sand stones were fixed on the original floor just to create harmony between the minarets and the prayer chamber of the mosque as they are also made of red sand stones.
The Mughals, however, preferred bricks over red stones for flooring because they were environmental friendly and did not decay by water accumulation.
Red sand stones get too hot in summer and one cannot walk barefoot on it.
Officials said red sand stones were bought in the 80s for future uses and the department is using stones from the old stock.
The ongoing renovation is a three-year project which started in 2006-07 and would be concluded in 2008-09 if the department get promised funds from the Auqaf Department. So far, of Rs36.44 million, Rs3.1 million has been spent on the project, said an official from Punjab Archeology Department.
Archeology Department officials say the department had floated many proposals to avoid red sand stone. They suggested marble for the courtyard instead of red sand stone. But the proposal could not be implemented since the marble was to be imported from Italy. The second proposal was about restoring the original pattern of the courtyard but the department had plenty of red sand stones and wanted to utilise it. Officials also proposed marbled-walkways from the main entrance to the prayer chambers to save people from the hotness of the stone but the proposal was also rejected. Now, rugs have been laid from the gate to the prayer chamber. Whenever water is sprinkled on the rugs, the stones cannot absorb it.
Once the monsoon sets in, the rehabilitation and renovation work will be lost. Now, another proposal to install makeshift wooden planks from the main gate to the prayer chamber is being considered.
A Punjab Archeology Department official told Dawn that by fixing red sand stone money could be saved but the deterioration would continue. About after two decades, red sand stones will have to be replaced because of their lack of water absorption. He demanded either the department restore original flooring or fix marbles so that one could avoid repeated renovations of red sand stone.
Bagh-i-Jinnah
By Sehar Sheikh
It is not without any reason that Lahore is known as ‘the city of gardens’. Move across the city and you will actually feel greenery around you. Though some commercial areas do give a Karachi-like industrial look, other than those Lahore is a city of greenery and gardens.
It was not only the Mughals who adored Lahore with Shalimar Gardens, the British too did their bit to add to the turf of the city. So in 1862, Sir John Lawrence, the British viceroy to India established the Lawrence Gardens (now renamed as Bagh-i-Jinnah) covering a whooping area of 112 acres.
Before describing Bagh-i-Jinnah itself, let me tell you a bit about its location which is very beautiful in itself. If you walk east from Charing Cross to Bagh-i-Jinnah, you come across Governor House which is located near Bagh-i-Jinnah. Two five star hotels are at a walking distance from Bagh-i-Jinnah. And above all, to children’s interest, Lahore Zoo, which is one of the finest zoos of the country, is at a stone’s throw from this garden.
Bagh-i-Jinnah is a place that has room for people of both genders and all ages. For kids, it has an amusement park which has swings and slides. Though there are not any electrical joy rides, the feel of swinging in the serenity of green garden is exotic. For boys, there is a very famous cricket ground that was built for the entertainment of government officers and civil servants. Those who like to visit shrines of holy saints; there is a shrine of a Sufi Baba Turat Murad Shah. Qawalis are normally played here and a large number of visitors are found offering Fateha at the shrine.
Even the nerds have something for their interest here. Yes, Bagh-i-Jinnah houses two libraries; two very big libraries, in fact. The Quaid-i-Azam library and Dar-us-Salam library are very famous libraries and have thousands of books on almost every subject. The membership fee is very nominal but you have to be a graduate to become a member of the Quaid-i-Azam library. Bagh-i-Jinnah has a ladies club, a tennis club, a mosque and a restaurant in it as well. For the students of Botany, Bagh-i-Jinnah again is an interesting place because it has many botanical gardens too. Government College Univer-sity has set up a very large botanical garden here. More-over, throughout the park there are very old trees of various varieties including some very rare ones in the world.
The best time to visit Bagh-i-Jinnah is early morning. The trails provide you the best path for jogging and the fresh air cooled down by greenery all around refreshes you. But some people, who love the sunset more than the sunrise, visit the park in the evenings. It looks mesmerising in the evenings when park lights are switched on and the fountains and waterfalls splash water, the park gives a very romantic view.
For outsiders, Bagh-i-Jinnah cannot be recommended as a must visit place unless they are more than interested in spending time in lush green gardens. However, if you plan to visit the Lahore Zoo, then do pay a visit to Bagh-i-Jinnah as well. But for residents of Lahore, it is unfair if they don’t spend few hours every now and then in the serenity of this beautiful garden.
Lahore: bazaars
Zooming in on Lahore’s bazaars
Amal Fatima Uppal takes you on a tour of all that is fancy and fabulousShopping is like eating out. Some prefer a buffet — a vast array of shops to pick and choose from. Others stick to ala carte — walk into a shop knowing exactly what they want. But however you approach it, shopping is as rewarding an experience as eating, maybe even more gratifying. And that’s even truer if you’re shopping in Lahore.
Anarkali:
If you were taking friends around Lahore and want to take them shopping, the first place that comes to mind is definitely Anarkali — the ancient bazaar, also known as Aladdin’s cave to the shoppers of Lahore. Anything and everything can be found here and everything you find anywhere else in the city can be found at least ten rupees cheaper here. True the merchandise is a bit on the gaudy side, but if one picks and chooses carefully, one can come back with something truly amazing.
Of course, if you’re already looking for tinselly, gaudy stuff then you don’t need to look any further! Spangles, stars, sequins, chamkis, everything and anything that glitters can be found on any and every item from kitchenware to cloth! Readymade, perfect replicas of designer wedding gowns, Lollywood extravaganza — anything can be found in Anarkali.
And yes, bangles! You can find all kinds of these, mainly ones with glittery glop stuck all over them; however, by searching carefully through the sparking jungle you will find some simple plain glass ones too. But why bother; after all you’re in Lahore and true Lahorites love it bright and sparkling.
Liberty
Following closely in popularity to Anarkali is Liberty. True to its name, it really makes its shoppers feel liberated from their daily grind as both men and women forget themselves in a world of wonder. You have your typical shops that have all the stuff you find in other markets but the specialties of Liberty are shoes, jewellery and knick knacks.
You want authentic henna? You go to Liberty. You want perfectly designed outfits copied from the catalogues of Armani and Gucci? You go to Liberty. You want some weird shoe with a pointed front that curls and has fur all over it covered with sequins? You go to Liberty!
Step into Dolcies and you won’t need to go to those branded stores for you’ll find the same merchandise, and much cheaper too! So unless you plan on exhibiting your shoes’ price tag at your little kitty-party-aunty lunches and teas, go to Liberty!
Oh and of course, there is the jewellery that is truly spectacular. No, I'm not talking about the typical gold and silver stuff. Yes, you do find those there as well, but I’m talking about the beautiful inlaid, and semi-precious stone-encrusted hair clasps, chunky rings and bracelets, waist chains and anklets in the most gorgeous designs. In fact, these places make a hair pin look like a piece of art!
Another thing Liberty is quite famous for is a variety of hair oils. They can be found in tiny shops hidden away in nooks and corners, and the shopkeeper actually feels your hairs’ texture and mixes up different oils to give you the perfect blend for your kind of hair! Talk about special service!
Liberty has a large variety of fabrics and clothes but one of the main attractions are the khusaas. Uff! Every colour and every kind from the simplest to the funkiest are found in a place women make a beeline for – the Dupatta Gali. You simply can’t come to Lahore and not go to Liberty! It’s practically a sin!
Auriga
Cloth, cloth and more cloth! That’s all I have to say! You don’t find anything there except cloth and you can get lost among the sellers who are busy calling out to attract potential buyers. They have a large range of seductive lines to lure women into buying their wares!
Ichhra
Ichhra is brilliant for bed linen, drapes and all kinds of upholstery. You simply choose the type of cloth you want for upholstery and give it for sewing according to your specifications, in fact the shopkeeper will be happy to guide you regarding the latest fashion as well.
Masoom’s Plaza
Masoom’s — which is actually a coffee shop located in a plaza known now as the ‘Masoom’s plaza’ — is the best place to go to if you’re into trendy clothes. Everything that can be hauled in from Singapore, Thailand and Bangkok is found in there. You will come across many items that carry the labels of Prada, Gucci, Dior, Armani, etc, and some of it is actually genuine, or so the shopkeepers say. You can find mini skirts and tank tops, party dresses and even elaborate burkas in the depths of Masoom’s shopping plaza.
Last but definitely not the least is the Defence Gol Market! It’s very similar to Pace, which again is similar to the mega malls found in the main cities, so I don’t think I need to describe it much. Throw in a handful of stores such as Crossroads, Stone Age, D3, Gravity, Hot Sense, etc. and you have enough places to keep shopping for years to come.
There you go people. I just gave you a whiff of what Lahore’s shopping havens have to offer. It’s like walking past a kebab joint and sniffing the air. You just can’t help but want to dive right in and get your hands on the yummy stuff. In the same way, when passing a market or visiting a new place, you just can’t help but have the urge to shop, even if it is window shopping. But in many shopping centres it really doesn’t matter how much you can afford because there’s something for everyone. So raid your husband’s, daddy’s or your own wallet, and indulge in a day devoted to Lahore’s finest shopping addas! Bon shopping!
Lahore: Cucoo’s Den
Heart Of The Old City
Located in what is arguably a shady part of the old city, Cucoo’s Den is part art gallery, part private residence of a famous artist, and part restaurant, writes Saima Shakil Hussain
They have a saying in Lahore, which (when translated) goes something like this: ‘They who have not seen Lahore, have not seen the world.’ I couldn’t agree more; but I would also append to that: ‘And those who haven’t eaten at Cucoo’s Den, have not been to Lahore.’
In fact, if you are able to eat out only once in Lahore — which is actually a crime in a city as hospitable as this one — make sure it’s at Cucoo’s Den. The concept behind this venture is truly inspired. Located in what is arguably a shady part of the old city, the building is part art gallery, part private residence of Iqbal Hussain, the artist, and part restaurant.
The interior has clearly been enhanced to make the ambience as historical-looking as possible — and also somewhat gothic. The many prominently displayed religious relics — from temple bells to a life-size statue of the Virgin Mary, serve as a strong signal that the venue is owned and managed by an all-embracing humanist.
While one can choose a table at the ground floor, for the complete Cucoo experience one must ascend to the rooftop via a narrow stairway.
Some dyed-in-the-wool Lahorites admitted to me that the only thing which has so far prevented them from visiting the eatery that out-of-towners rave about is its daunting set of stairs. Admittedly, they are a little steep and a few too many, and the confined space is bound to affect those who suffer bouts of claustrophobia. But the trick is the usual — don’t look down and keep going till you get to the rooftop.
And what a rooftop it is. There are no words to describe the view from here; indeed memories of it still give me goose bumps. On our left was the majestic Badshahi Mosque which was beautifully lit-up on a pitch-dark November night. Next to it, one could glimpse the imposing Lahore Fort. And on our right was the ‘Shahi Mauhalla’, alternately known as Heera Mandi or simply the red light district in Lahore. Unfortunately our view of this famed neighbourhood was limited to its numerous rooftops which were, as far as the eye could see, all adorned with black allums and metallic punjaas.
As engrossing and awe-inspiring as the scenery was, the menu was handed to us and we quickly got down to the business of food — the business of Pakistani food that is. From its famed tawa chicken to the brain masala and variety of kababs, there was nothing found lacking here. And it was all served piping hot despite the cool outdoor temperature. There is even a large assortment of bread; we tried the tandoori roti and tandoori paratha but voted unanimously in favour of the incredible roghni naan.
Tawa chicken. Depending on the dim lighting available to us, and our taste buds of course, we tried very hard to decipher the spices used to create this luscious meal which tastes nothing like any chicken tikka, tandoori chicken or bihari chicken that is featured on most menus. There was a strong presence of lemon, a complete lack of yogurt and a lot of what tasted like a generous, dry rub of ground cumin and coriander seeds mixed with roughly chopped hara masala. It was very flavourful but not spicy, and the same was true for the reshmi kabab we had ordered.
It is interesting to note that when this restaurant first opened over 10 years ago, all the food came from the many vendors in the vicinity known for its mouthwatering specialities. Now most of the food is prepared on location, though some items still come from there. How the food makes it all the way up to the rooftop is another interesting story. Look closely and you will notice platters of food being pulled up with the help of strong ropes and pulleys.
I am told that at first it was hard to get many to come so far into the old city for a meal but then, all of a sudden, the idea really took off about five to six years ago. Now it’s a good idea to call in advance to reserve a table on the coveted rooftop. The cost per head came to Rs500 which was very reasonable considering the delicious food, efficient service and, of course, the breathtaking view.
